Friday, September 14, 2012

A Visit to Avebury

“Are you coming with us to Avebury?”
“What’s there?”
“These amazing stone circles put there by people 4500 years ago. It’s the biggest Neolithic circle in Europe.”
“Nah. Well, it’s not really that exciting is it?”
“Well you can’t bungee jump off them or anything.”
“Yeah no, I’ll just say home then.” 

And so, leaving the unimpressed teen behind for this one, us other three excitables head off early one drizzly morning to Avebury, in order to beat the crowds. It’s a technique that never fails to unimpress the kids, but with  Britain's population about three times of Australia’s but 31 times smaller, popular places can get really busy. Fortunately getting up early is mostly left to the tourists and never fails to work.
I had picked Avebury because I have never seen any of the henges and I wanted to see them close up. As it turned Avebury is looked after by the National Trust of which we are members, and so our parking and entry was free (don’t worry, we made up for it by buying plenty in the visitor shop). As early as we arrived there were already the large empty shells of several coaches.

Sensible people that we are we decided that while the busloads were off henging, we would grab a cream tea while there were scones left (Devonshire Tea in Australia).
Avebury is a sweet little village in its own right- thatch and stone buildings and beautiful gardens. We’re truly impressed because of the amount of people that must come through here and it appears the opposite of well trodden- it’s even peaceful.
 
This area of Wiltshire is green hilly farmland, and to actually walk among the stones is to dance around the sheep shit. The sheep watch you completely unimpressed.
 More pagan* eejits, you can hear them think.
 
I don’t feel anything much about the stones, though typically me I want to. Like anyone I would love to know exactly what they were first placed here for. Divided up as they are by farmland, I think I’d have to be hovering above in my Druid robe to really appreciate them in their intended layout. I do press my hand to them which is understandable and like most idiots check for any palpable humming. Nup.
 I am charmed however by a lovely little stand of young oaks atop a small hill. All the lowest branches are tied with coloured ribbons. I’m guessing some sort of wish fulfilment but can’t be sure, but it has a touch of faerie about it. Or that could just be in my head. It’s a nice place in there.Thank you for visiting.
 Our walk around the circle is lovely, drizzle aside, and we stop to watch a group of tourists led through a wheat field that has had some sort of pattern stamped into it. Or words perhaps- "Farmer Dave has lost his tractor key somewhere here."
 
Back in the village we decide to visit Avebury Manor and we’re pleased we do because it’s gorgeous. The house is about 500 years old and after a string of owners; the National Trust bought it and finally gave a green light to a BBC show who renovated the interiors and gardens for a show, but certainly not a song. Bah boom tish. Ahem...
 Each room of the house has been done up in the style of a different era. It’s fascinating. Even Flynn is really intrigued. We all have our favourite rooms, mine possibly the Tudor one with the rush flooring and newly carved oak furniture. And what’s more you are encouraged to interact with everything. You can play billiards, lie on the amazing beds, sit on the seats. You know- touch stuff!
 We are so impressed, we bought the video as they say, so we could see how they transformed it. The gardens around the house are wonderful and make me miss growing veges very much. although they are doing a somewhat better job.
 
We have a very tasty lunch at a pub haunted by the ghost of a woman murdered and tossed down a well. I am a bit lost for words (I know!) when I realise the round dining table in the corner is the well itself, with a Perspex top and seating added round the edges. Um, okay...
Apparently the well once stood outside and the original pub was built over the top of it.
The ghost is probably just trying to tell them what a tasteless piece of planning that was!
 
 On our way home we pass Silbury Hill - an amazing sight - a 4800 year old man-made chalk hill- original purposes once again guessed at, but in any case impressive.
It just sits out there like a toy left under a big green rug. The view from the top must be spectacular but it’s on private land and I am not sure you can climb it. That’s what I say out loud, but really after a day of meandering, I haven’t the energy unless there were a guaranteed four-poster waiting at the top for me.
 I spot a picture perfect pub on the way back and jump out onto the road like a crow after road pizza to take a photo, but I just can’t visit them all damn it!
All in all it's an excellent and well spent day out- even without a henge bungee jump.

 
*Whilst I did make a little fun of the druid/pagan focus on Avebury and indeed probably all the henge's, I do actually like the nature focus aspect of paganism and have often thought Fil would make a fine druid in a parallel universe.
I know, thanks for sharing that Natalie.